Trees and shrubs are the “bones” of our landscapes, so it is important they receive the general care necessary for a healthy life.
A list of suitable trees may be found at www.forabc.org under Ardmore Tree Board, The Best Trees for Southern Oklahoma. A watering guideline for new trees is also available. Trees 4 years and older should be able to rely on seasonal rainfall. Details such as removing tree stakes, mulching, pruning and use of herbicides can all affect the health of the plant.
Tree Stakes — If you have young trees that are staked, consider now to be a good time to remove the stake. Because of our strong Oklahoma winds, new trees are often staked in an effort to keep them from falling over.
Often stakes are placed on newly planted trees and several years later the tree remains tethered in place. A tree left to sway in the breeze will develop a stronger trunk and all stakes should be removed after the first growing season and certainly after the first year. If the stake is left on the tree indefinitely, the wire or tie holding the tree usually has grown into the trunk, compromising its health.
Mulching Trees — Mulch your trees making sure the mulch does not touch or get piled up against the trunk. The ideal pile of mulch around a tree is 2 to 4 inches high and most arborists find organic mulch works best.
If mulch is piled higher it can smother the tree’s root system. Keep mulch 6 to 12 inches back from the trunk. Having mulch against a tree trunk can serve as a means for disease and harmful insects to cause damage. Mulch can be applied any time during the year.
Crape Myrtle Shrubs — These resilient plants are known for their graceful beauty and consistent performance during our tough, hot, Oklahoma summers. They come in all sizes, so be sure to select the plant you need in order to get the result desired.
Dwarf crape myrtles grow 3 to 4 feet tall and Centennial, Hope, Prairie Lace or Victor are excellent choices. Semidwarf selections reach 8 to 14 feet in about 10 years. Varieties include Acoma, Catawba, Cherokee, Comanche, Hopi and Sioux. For plants that will mature at least 20 feet tall, plant Biloxi, Byers Wonderful White, Dallas Red, Fantasy, Natchez, Muskogee or Watermelon Red.
Pruning — Crape myrtle shrubs bloom on new growth. Typically, the dwarf varieties are left to grow naturally and develop a rounded, graceful form. When pruning standard-sized plants, don’t cut the shrub low to the ground and expect it to develop an attractive trunk. Crape myrtles trimmed in this manner, or cut level across the top section of the plant, will develop gnarled knots resulting in an unsightly appearance.
These beautiful summer blooming plants are very forgiving, but the medium and standard size do best when pruned like a young multiple-trunk tree. Too many trunks can make the shrub appear unkempt, so if you are pruning to shape the tree, remember to cut to see through it, not over it. Three to five trunks per plant are considered an average number.
Middle to late winter is the best time to prune crape myrtles because the plant is dormant, the leaves have dropped and it is easier to see which branches need to be removed. Check the media to see when the Carter County Master Gardeners or the Ardmore Tree Board will offer a class in Crape Myrtle Pruning or to have your name put on a call list for the class contact (580) 223-2230.
Herbicides — Only use herbicides around crape myrtles when absolutely necessary and then with caution. It can cause damage to the plant. Preen and Green is a better choice to keep weeds from the base of the shrub and an even better suggestion is to place mulch around the trunk. Make a circle of mulch 4 to 5 inches out from the plant making sure the mulch does not touch the trunk. RoundUp should never be used around crape myrtle shrubs.
Well-tended plants should live longer, healthier lives, so enjoy your trees and shrubs and, if in doubt, consult with a professional or one of the many tree resource organizations in our community.
